More filament notes
These notes are based on my experiences with the Prusa i3 Mk3 printer. If you are using a different printer, please verify the hardware details are same. These pages may be a bit rough as I revise them and add new material. Please check back regularly for updates.
Notes on temperature deflection
|Filament Type||Max. Temperature|
Calibrating new filament¶
Filament calibration routine.
- Extrusion width
- Linear Advance
- Maximum volumetric speed (rate)
Printing with PETG¶
- PETG is attracted to hot metal, so try to keep your bed is at hot as possible and the extruder is a cold as possible at the start of your prints. After the first layer the extruder temperature can be raised and the bed temperature lowered.
- Consider a coated nozzle and/or heater block silicone sock to reduce tendency of PETG to jump onto the nozzle and heater block.
- When switching from PETG to PLA, heat the nozzle above PETG temps and use some cleaning filament to clear the hotend and nozzle of any residual PETG. This is not 100% mandatory, but the cleaning filament does a good job of pulling out all the PETG, and will also melt out at PLA temps, so any stuck won’t screw up lower temp PLA prin
- PETG is prone to snagging onto the nozzle if it’s too close. Some Live-Z adjustment for PETG is recommended. I raise (make less negative) by 0.02mm, though others swear by 0.2mm.
- You don’t need an enclosure for PETG. It’s pleasant to work with at normal room temperatures.
- Keep PETG in sealed bags with fresh desiccant when not in use.
- Most PETG will print fine on the PEI sheet with a spritz of Windex and/or wipes with your fingers. However, hotter stuff (>240C on 80C+ bed) may stick too well. Consider gluestick or some other release agent for hotter temps.
- Reserve one PEI surface for PETG, and a separate surface for PLA.
Contact and feedback
Last updated on Apr 19, 2019